Issue 333

"That's OK, I will send something up. Just one thing. When you go out today, you cannot wear shorts like earlier. This is not acceptable. And one other thing, and this is just a small thing. Do not tell anyone you are Israeli. We are Sufi tradition, but the Wahabi's are moving in. They have built 250 mosques in the capital alone."

This was one of many strained conversations I would have with Abdi. His hotel is in Hargeysa, capital of the de facto state of Somaliland. They are a member of the Unrepresented Nations and Peoples Organization (UNPO) along with Nagaland, Transdniestria, Northern Cyprus and dozens of others.

Abdi has been there, done that. Somali born, educated in the West, world traveler, he splits his time managing his investments in his birthplace and raising his family in the States. Acknowledging that I am over my head here, I am relieved that he has appointed himself my travel agent. I would play guinea pig in his adventure tourism side-business during my brief stay.

My appointed driver/guide is Abdullah 'Little King Kong'. He speaks seven languages and has written a book on his country's history. "I saved a Dutchwoman from a snake bite. She is thanking me by lining up a publisher in Amsterdam." Our first stop is the camel market. It is more goat than camel. A young boy approaches me and asks for two pieces of information: nationality and religion. My response of " Canada" and "Budhist" is met with a blank stare.

Walking through the capital, Abdullah points out how safe it is in Somaliland. I ask him why it isn't safe in in Somalia. "We are people of peace; they only know how to fight." I ask him when they will get their independence. "Soon" he says. "Not until the US builds a military base here," I think to myself.

We move on to our next stop, the Neolithic cave drawings at Las Geel. During the drive, Abdullah points out the shells of buildings leveled by the army of Somalia's former president Mohammed Siyad Barre. Tank and other military skeletons also pop up. "Didn't the US support Barre?" I ask. "Yes, but this is OK. If you only look to the past you cannot see the future."

En route to our final stop -- the old port town of Berbera -- Abdullah points to the distant horizon and starts laughing along with my armed escort. He explains that they served in the army together and are reminiscing about the time the escort was shot and Abdullah carried him on his back all day while the escort pleaded to just let him die. "It was just over there," they continued laughing.

We find our way to the beach populated by large white crabs and camels. Just as I am about to immerse myself in the warm Gulf of Aden, Abdullah says "I forgot to tell you. The US is building a naval base just down there." I take a dip with a smile on face confident of this fledgling nation's future.

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Source: Lonely Planet

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