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Issue 528/ 10th - 16th Mar 2012
Adventure Travel In Somalia?
Will Somalia become the next big adventure travel destination?
Short answer: Not anytime soon.
Long answer: For the first time in two decades, there's a ray of hope shining across that chaotic land. The Islamist terrorist group Al-Shabaab is on the defensive as it gets pummeled by Kenyan, Ethiopian, African Union, and Somali "government" forces. They've fled Mogadishu and several other key areas. The battered capital is beginning to enjoy something resembling normal life, as a BBC report shows. They even have traffic police!
Earlier this week, amid much fanfare from the Transitional Federal Government of Somalia, a Turkish Airlines flight landed at Mogadishu airport. This was the first flight from a major international carrier to land at the airport in years. On board was Turkey's deputy prime minister on a goodwill mission. The airline has scheduled twice-weekly flights from Istanbul to Mogadishu via Khartoum. In a statement, it said that it hoped Somalia would soon be "a very normal country."
A "very normal country," or even just a "normal country" has a tourism industry. Is this possible in Somalia? Is it even desirable?
There's certainly no shortage of interesting things to do in Somalia. The Somalis have a distinctive culture made up of clans and many are still pastoral nomads wandering the dry scrubland with herds of camels like they did centuries ago. Somali cuisine is a strange mixture of African and Italian, with one of the favorite foods being spaghetti, eaten by hand. There is also the possibility of it having a rich archaeological heritage of painted caves, like the one I visited at Laas Geel in the breakaway northern state of Somaliland. For more contemporary art, check out the funky murals adorning shops and public buildings.
You could even see a "technical" like that shown in this Wikimedia Commons image. Technicals are a favorite weapon of African states and militia. They're basically vehicles with a machine gun or recoilless rifle mounted on top. I've come across these several times in the Horn of Africa. Trust me, when you see one at a roadblock, you stop. And no, I don't have any pictures. There's a difference between an adventure traveler and an idiot.
Which brings me to my point. Yes, with enough determination and bribery you could probably take a tour of Somalia. You'll need to get in good with one of the clans and get some bodyguards, of course. A few people have done this. To say that it is dangerous is an understatement, but that's neither here nor there. Every individual's life is their own and if they want to risk it seeing a bombed-out country that's their business. The problem comes when you look at the ramifications of such an action.
While making yourself a target for kidnappers and suicide bombers will give you some cool stories when, and if, you get back home to your friends, it's good to remember that the people you pass in the street are home. Walking in Mogadishu puts everyone at risk. There's enough trouble in Somali without adding a photo-snapping Westerner into the mix.
Luckily, if you want
to explore Somali culture, you can still do so without risking getting
shot in Mogadishu or kidnapped by pirates in Puntland. Two years ago, I
spent an enjoyable ten days traveling
in Somaliland without
experiencing any threats, although it was a tough trip on many other
levels. You can also visit Ethiopia's
If you're serious, drop me a line and I'll put you in touch with my